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Fairy My Hair

Fairy My HairFairy My HairFairy My Hair
  • Home
  • Why Fairy Hair Lasts
  • Fairy Hair FAQ
  • Did you say "Silk"?
  • Pricing
  • Contact

A Biochemistry Look Into the So-Called “Silk” Fairy Hair

Do you think silk will withstand 400F?

Have you heard via that famous grapevine that some fairy hair strands are made of silk? Do you own a piece of silk in your house? Maybe a silk pillowcase, or an undergarment?


Then you probably know how gently we treat it. We don’t even put it in the dryer. No high heat—just air-dry it and handle it gently. Natural silk simply isn’t something we associate with a 400°F hair straightener.


I worked for many years on yachts and at estates and handled numerous silk items. I have a mulberry silk pillowcase myself, and I don't put that in the dryer. 


Today, I am probably going to pop one of your most precious bubbles if you love fairy hair.


I love fairy hair too. Obviously. I’ve been installing it in my clients’ hair for three years. But I also love biochemistry, I love understanding what things are actually made of, and I believe in calling something what it is.


There is good news after the bubble popping, though.

So, here we go.

Since Dec 2023 I’ve worked with many different fairy hair materials. I’ve seen different brands, different textures, different levels of shine, different strengths, and very different results in the hair.


And one thing becomes very obvious when you start comparing them closely:


“Silky” does not necessarily mean silk.


There are certainly enormous differences in quality. Some synthetic strands are beautifully soft and flowing. They contour naturally with the hair and almost disappear between your fingers. Others are stiff, crunchy and plasticky. You can actually hear and feel the difference when you rub them between your fingers.


But that silky feel does not turn a synthetic polymer into natural silk.


And this is where my biochemistry degree comes in and my brain gets excited.


So What Is Actual Silk?


Let’s look at the molecule.

Silk on a molecular level

Natural silk is a protein fiber. The primary structural protein in silkworm silk is called fibroin.

Fibroin is made from chains of amino acids, particularly glycine, alanine and serine. 


These amino acids are arranged in repeating sequences, and the protein chains organize into tightly packed beta-sheet structures held together largely by hydrogen bonding.

In other words, silk is biological.

It is literally built from amino acids.

And that molecular architecture is part of what gives natural silk its beautiful combination of softness, flexibility and strength.

Now Look at “Nano Silk”

This is where things get interesting.

Despite the word silk, Nano Silk is not silkworm silk.

GSP stands for gel-spun polyethylene. In high-performance versions, this is typically ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene, or UHMWPE.

And chemically, polyethylene is almost beautifully simple.

Instead of amino acids, its backbone consists essentially of repeating units of:

–CH₂–CH₂–

Carbon and hydrogen.

Again and again and again, forming extraordinarily long polymer chains.

During gel spinning and drawing, those long molecular chains can become highly aligned. That molecular organization is one of the reasons these incredibly fine synthetic fibers can achieve such impressive strength for their weight.

So when the word “silk” is used to describe a synthetic material, it can be describing the experience of the material—fine, smooth, light and silky—rather than telling you that the material came from a silkworm.

And that’s an important distinction.

So Is Synthetic Fairy Hair Bad? Absolutely not. In fact, this is the good-news part of the story. For something that is going to live in human hair, be washed repeatedly, brushed, exposed to styling products and potentially encounter a hot styling tool, a carefully engineered synthetic material can have some enormous practical advantages. The question for me isn’t simply: “Is it silk?” It is polyester-based, but the much more interesting question is: “What kind of polymer is it, and how has that polymer been engineered?” Because two strands that look almost identical can feel remarkably different. One can be stiff and crinkly and want to stand away from the natural hair. Another can be extraordinarily fine, soft and flowing, sliding smoothly through your fingers and contouring beautifully with the hair. That difference can come from several things: the polymer itself, molecular orientation and crystallinity, film thickness, how the material was drawn or processed, and any surface treatment or coating applied afterward. And this is where I think the word quality actually matters. I source the highest quality I can find, and install only this in clients'hair. A beautiful fairy-hair strand doesn’t have to be natural silk. It needs to behave beautifully in hair.

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